Sooooo much to tell! I haven't been on the blog in months, but it's time to restart. This is the official re-launch of sandinmyvans.blogspot.com. Tell all your friends!
Ok. Let's pick up where I left ya'll off at: The NKF Rick Salick memorial Pro-am (the official name of that first surf competition I entered) was a story of it's own.
I lived on the beach and slept on the staging all week; saw some awesome people and sic surfing by day, saw some funny drunk people on the beach, and was captivated by the beauty of the landscape as part of the security crew by night.
I competed in just one heat; and though I didn't advance, I didn't get skunked either! 5th out of six wasn't bad for someone at my experience level (I'm even way better now!)
I met a pro surfer girl who, though she finished in like 3rd i think it was, just rocked the surf better than anyone -a true soul surfer!
Ok, I'm goin to bed. More of the stories in the next post...
Pray for me; keeping focus is extremely important right now.
I have so much to tell about my first four months here! It's been insane! (In a good way.)
I don't have time for details right now, and technical diffuculties are preventing me from putting up a picture on this post like I normally would. I love to share pics...just breaks my heart not to! Oh, well. maybe next time...
So, since actually riding my first waves about 3 months ago, I've been solidly at it on a daily basis dodging kooks and tourists, and actually helping some of them kooks catch their own first rides!
I'm sufing at a level that I really shouldn't be able to surf at. I mean, I'm still ironing out some of my own kook wrinkles, but it's all dropping in place like a supercomputer pounding a Russian chess-master. God's Grace is amazing!
I've already charged down a decent number of 4-6 foot breaks, and am currently working on my carves. It's been kind of depressing recently, only since there hasn't been many swells big enough to carve at all. But I'm out there anyway; even if all there is to do is jump-surf shore breaks -you really learn how to turn quick when a family of 4-5 people just walked in front of you right as you're catching the best 1-1/2 foot wave of an otherwise tortilla-flat day -on a shortboard, no less! Yeah, no longboards for me. It's actually true that I can nearly walk a ripple on a 6 foot gun; crazy, huh? You just gotta want it bad enough...
So, the current news is I'm paying down a new surfboard so I have a fresh gun to compete with. Yes, compete. You heard me right. There's a competition coming up at the end of August, and I plan on entering; even if a make a fool out of myself, I'm throwin' down! I have a sticker on both of my boards that says "Who do you surf for?" I surf for Jesus. I'm not giving any less than my best!
So, there ya'll have it. Pray for me for that upcoming contest. I'm in it win, even if I don't. After that, I'll enter more...go as far as God allows; and see just how far He can take me. He got me this far already! If God is for us, who can be against us?
Well. Ole' Man Winter got pretty lazy this season. I totally dig not having snow, (dry streets=more skate sessions) but I was kinda hoping for a few more nor-easter's -just so the surf would pick up at The Wall (North Hampton beach). But, hey. Now, I got a job that's helpin' save me some greenbacks...since the 'hot cocoa season' kinda bombed, I think I'mma gonna go where Cocoa is hot -Cocoa Beach, FL! Slater town! That's the plan, anyhow. We'll see...it's in God's hands now. But it's gonna be time to pack-up around mid-March. If ya'll think of it, pray for me. This seems to be God's design for my life now. I got a lot to learn, though! Especially with surfing; but one step at a time, the journey continues...
See, I just got back from a surf trip with a good friend a few hours ago. Around here, the water temp this time of year is like 53 degrees Fahrenheit, and the air was around 48 degrees at its best. So, yeah, that means wetsuits. And, it means a bit of courage, if you're beginner (like me). But I keep finding I'm severely motivated when it comes to throwing myself bodily into an onslaught of pounding breakers...
See, I write this blog as a reminder to myself and others about how God shot down my cynicism through the simple beauty of surfing. But it can be hard to stay on track when you're out of your element. So, that's apparently why I inadvertently overheard my friend talking about going for a surf trip..."Ooh! Can I tag along?" Was my immediate response. Y'know, kinda like a kid who just heard the ice cream truck music drift through the midsummer breeze, and then attacks the nerve-racked driver like a fly-ball into left field (trust me on that metaphor; I was an ice cream man once...) God had a plan for my ADD-motivated impromptu eavesdropping...and so, the adventure continues!
But it wasn't until the discussion on the drive home when (while I was talking way too much -as usual) it hit me square between the eyes: I'd lost focus! I'd been away from where I need to be!
God gave me this crazy freakin' sweet day; an opportunity to get back on board (no pun intende...oh, forget it; just laugh!) and see around that blind spot which keeps my faith strong. To see another taste of where things are going. An awesome reminder of what I really am because of Jesus.
YEAH!
God bless ya'll this Christmas season...Pray for surf!
So; in case you hadn't noticed, my blog's name references my favorite skate shoe company, Vans. Of all things, the 'Vans van' showed up at Newpark earlier this week. If it weren't for my being at the church building when my pastor asked me to be, I might've slept in, forgotten to hit up the park, and missed out big time! (I mean, who don't dig free stuff? -Especially when it's cool stuff you actually like...)
(Yup. That's my mug. I could smile a bit more...ya think?)
...What? Oh. You're expecting me to say something else. =D
The wait is the hardest part. But it always turns out to be the best thing for us. We learn to temper our temper. (?) That's a fancy way to say it. We need to learn to sharpen our focus so we don't freak out when what we're waiting for finally gets there. Well, I guess I'll speak for myself, at least.
I always find myself writing songs about times like this. So, here's one of my latest. You should crash the open mic night (every Friday) at Riverwalk Cafe in Nashua; you might get to hear me play it! I hope you do...
"Praying for surf"
Walk these lonely street-light scenes
I love them, but it's killing me
See, I don't a shell to hear
The waves are calling loud and clear
Chorus:
Maybe it's time I left this town, time that I moved out
Time I moved down by the sea, It's time I moved out by the sea
The video below is one of my favorite songs: "Ocean Floor" by Audio Adrenaline.
It's a good look at what God's mercy is really like.
Forgiveness is wonderful.
All the same, it came sharply into focus today what forgiveness implies: when God forgives, He requires forgiveness from us, the forgiven.
See, this girl once met; I seemed to hit it off with her right away. But I was far to deep in my own sin, and distorted, selfish worldview in order to see her true character. I missed all the signs, and somehow, (thinking I was being helpful -"huh?") said something to her that was completely judgmental, and way off-base. Worse, I blogged about my self-righteous "observations" about what I thought was wrong with my friend (don't bother trying; for good reason, that blog isn't there anymore). It didn't matter that I hadn't used her name, or that I had only like, 2 followers for that site. The damage had been done! And what a catastrophe!
In her response, she was obviously hurt, and left me scrambling to try to 'tape things up'. How stupid I'd been! I attempted an immediate apology (or rather, just a cover-up to try to make me look good). Of course, it was met with an appropriate reply. In reference to us being friends, I was toast.
It took a long time (months), but, again God in His mercy cut through my thick skull. I knew I was wrong; this time for sure. I gathered up what threads of courage I had left, and sent an actual apology; this time, serious. I was wrong, and trying to admit it. Weeks passed, -no reply. I just decided it was in God's hands now. What else could I do? Then, this afternoon, I log on, and there's that '1 new message!' flag. The last thing I expected! She'd forgiven me. But she did have this to say:
"I'd like to mention that there are like 20 verses that say not to judge others and that's what you did. Not very Christian of you...
"Judge not, that you be not judged. For with the judgment you pronounce you will be judged, and with the measure you use it will be measured to you. Why do you see the speck that is in your brother's eye, but do not notice the log that is in your own eye? Or how can you say to your brother, ‘Let me take the speck out of your eye,’ when there is the log in your own eye? You hypocrite, first take the log out of your own eye, and then you will see clearly to take the speck out of your brother's eye." ~Matthew 7:1-5
...However I do forgive you."
Ouch. But true.
I was suddenly sobered by what this all meant. I've been given the responsibility to pass forgiveness on to everyone else.
In Christ's own words:
"'For if you forgive men when they sin against you, your Heavenly Father will also forgive you. But if you do not forgive men their sins, your father will not forgive your sins'" (Matthew 6:14-15)
Toss it to the ocean floor! Forgive! And be forgiven! (Sorry, I was talking to myself again!) It's so wonderful to let go.
Besides, it's hard to surf with a backpack full of soggy newspapers...
