Tales of a cynic who melted at the sight of Redemption.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Cocoa Beach update:

I have so much to tell about my first four months here! It's been insane! (In a good way.)
I don't have time for details right now, and technical diffuculties are preventing me from putting up a picture on this post like I normally would. I love to share pics...just breaks my heart not to! Oh, well. maybe next time...

So, since actually riding my first waves about 3 months ago, I've been solidly at it on a daily basis dodging kooks and tourists, and actually helping some of them kooks catch their own first rides!
I'm sufing at a level that I really shouldn't be able to surf at. I mean, I'm still ironing out some of my own kook wrinkles, but it's all dropping in place like a supercomputer pounding a Russian chess-master. God's Grace is amazing!

I've already charged down a decent number of 4-6 foot breaks, and am currently working on my carves. It's been kind of depressing recently, only since there hasn't been many swells big enough to carve at all. But I'm out there anyway; even if all there is to do is jump-surf shore breaks -you really learn how to turn quick when a family of 4-5 people just walked in front of you right as you're catching the best 1-1/2 foot wave of an otherwise tortilla-flat day -on a shortboard, no less! Yeah, no longboards for me. It's actually true that I can nearly walk a ripple on a 6 foot gun; crazy, huh? You just gotta want it bad enough...

So, the current news is I'm paying down a new surfboard so I have a fresh gun to compete with. Yes, compete. You heard me right. There's a competition coming up at the end of August, and I plan on entering; even if a make a fool out of myself, I'm throwin' down! I have a sticker on both of my boards that says "Who do you surf for?" I surf for Jesus. I'm not giving any less than my best!

So, there ya'll have it. Pray for me for that upcoming contest. I'm in it win, even if I don't. After that, I'll enter more...go as far as God allows; and see just how far He can take me. He got me this far already! If God is for us, who can be against us?

Hang 10, ya'll! Catch ya later!

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